Istanbul United

Istanbul’s three soccer teams are backed by clubs of hardcore fans, or Ultras. They're organised, violent, and have a long history of mutual hatred. But after they came together for mass-protests in 2013, will Istanbul ever be the same again? “If Galatasaray was a body…we are the fists,” says Kerem Cürbüz. He’s a member of Ultraslan, the supporters’ club for Galatasaray. He started going to football matches as a child and was struck by the camaradery shown to him by complete strangers, just because he was wearing the Galatsaray jersey. He never stopped going back for more, and proudly sporting the club’s red and yellow colours. “Black and white for us is like life and death without distinction,” declares Ayhan Guner, leader of Carsi, a rival Ultra club, referring to his team’s colours. “For us there’s nothing in between. There’s no grey. Only black and white. We would die for Besiktas. We would kill for Besiktas.” He didn’t get to be leader of the club without demonstrating his passion, with words and actions. In the over 500 away games he has attended and the many more at home, he has had his fair share of scrapes with opposing fans, and with the police. Different jerseys, same passion. The Ultras' mutual hatred may be legendary, but clearly there have much in common. It will take a dramatic turn of events to make them realise it, and to unite them behind a cause. When the government threatens the basic civil liberties of the population, they will join the throng, supplying their chants, their numbers, and their courage to the citizens’ fight. The Ultras are no strangers to tear gas and water cannons. This unprecedented and unexpected show of solidarity will capture the public imagination. But what will remain when the protests are over? Will the Ultras go back their old ways? Or will this political coming of age leave a mark that cannot be erased? Will Istanbul ever be the same again?